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Excerpted from Cal Poly Land:  A Field Guide, copyright 2002 Steven Marx

 

A Meditation on Sheep and Those Who Tend Them

 

The stone sheep corral on upper Pennington Creek looks ancient, even mythological, though it is probably no more than 130 years old: a jumbled, wavering line of serpentine rock, laid down by hand sometime after the great drought of 1862-1864 when sheepmen first arrived in the country.  This one sits near the site of the J. Pennington homestead and is the only trace, except for the olive trees, of the hardy folk who once lived there.  I've seen walls like this before, thousands of years old, in both Greece and Israel, walls of piled rock meandering over the lion-colored hills, walls dividing one mans flock from another.

 

 

For sheep are serious business--you can see this at the Pennington corral.  Somebody sweated for months to dig out these stones and carry them to the site, to feel out their flat planes and their protuberances, to fit them together like an immense and ungainly puzzle, somehow meant to stay vertical in spite of winter freezes, spring gusts, the baking heat of summer.  Not to mention a crowding mob of woolies, spooked by a bobcat or a moonlit coyote songfest,  Whoever worked on this wall had good leather gloves or wound up missing skin.  And--no doubt about it--this project carved itself into the base of his spine forever.

But where were the sheep when he was building?  Not necessarily staying out of trouble.  For these peaceful ruminants are as difficult as goats to keep confined, yet once loose, utterly defenseless.  A determined dog can tear a ewe to shreds; a pack can decimate a flock, just for the fun of it.  Nor do sheep make good decisions.  The lost sheep has in fact become a universal symbol for foolish helplessness.  I imagine their bony skulls and what lies beneath:  does an animal so limited in intellectual ability have the capacity for dread?  Yet what else could it feel, given the circumstances?

Much love is thus required of the shepherd.  I've known people who raised sheep--my uncle, a Norwegian bachelor farmer in Minnesota, kept a good-sized flock for many years--but he was not a shepherd in the old, venerable sense of the word.  His ram, a yellow-eyed monster with curling horns, he kept locked in a stall in the barn; the ewes, confined by sturdy fences, grazed quietly among crabapple trees.  When the temperature plummeted and the snow fell, he drove them all inside where mutual desire--ram and ewes--kept them warm.  Only once a year did my uncle know the shepherd's heart, and this was during lambing season.  It was then he laid aside his other chores to focus on his flock, to think like a sheep, to inhabit that dark, uneasy psyche.  It was then that his natural tenderness, so rarely called out during his hard days of labor on the farm, came forth.

Real shepherds, those loners who tend thousands of animals on the open range, are harder to find.  I met one once, a Basque man on a high Sierra plateau with his trailer, his dogs and his gun.  The sheep were everywhere, 2,500 of them, cropping grass in the thin alpine air.  They'd come from the Valley, he told me, and he would take them down again, a 10,000-foot descent, when the cold days began.  We'd stumbled onto his pasturelands, my young husband and I, while hunting for arrow-heads along an icy river.  The battered pink trailer had been there for years--in fact, we'd seen another one a mile back, empty, with words in a strange language scrawled on the inside walls, as though without telephone or mail some anguished shepherd had had no other way to court the girl he'd left behind.  Our own shepherd explained this to me in his few words of English:  young men from his country, he said, came to America for work and work alone.  When they saved enough to marry, they went back to their towns at the base of the Pyrenees.

I wanted to know more.  What did he do, for example, about mountain lions?  What happened during lightening storms?  Did the sheep go crazy?  My husband, his mind on the arrowheads, wandered off along the riverbank while the shepherd and I talked on and on.  He was a small man about my size, younger, I was sure, than he looked.  His face was seamed, his fingernails black, his front teeth rotted.  Something had chewed on one ear and a persistent fly hung near the crusted-over wound.  His dog, a border collie mix, lay close by, keeping both master and flock in her steady gaze.  We were standing near the pink trailer with the rifle propped against it.  His brown eyes moved off to the east in the direction my husband had headed, and I followed his look.  Nothing but green meadow and the backs of grazing sheep.

He turned back to me and cleared his throat, then asked, very courteously, if I would mind stepping inside the trailer, for he had something to show me, something he was sure I'd like to see.  A profound silence fell upon us, broken by the distant scream of a wheeling hawk.  No thank you, I said carefully, already starting to move off.  I've got to be going now.  I need to catch up with my ... No, please, he said, I think you would like this.  I looked at the door of the tiny trailer, which was ajar, and tried to imagine its impoverished interior  A water bucket, perhaps, and a tin pot, bags of rice and beans, a cot and a ragged sleeping bag.  Were there love poems on the walls?

No, I said.  I'm sorry.  I really need to go now.  I smiled reassuringly into the soft brown eyes and thought that I would kill my oblivious husband if I got out of this one alive.

Then wait, he said.  One moment only.  He turned and slipped through the door and I contemplated just bolting, darting to the side and running blindly until whatever was going to happen to me happened.  Beyond the trailer, the flock moved slowly through the grass like an immense living body.  All was peace, except perhaps in the heart of this lonely shepherd.

But then he was back, holding out one closed fist for my inspection.  The hawk screamed again, further off, and I said, What is it?  Slowly, he rotated his hand and opened his palm.  On it lay a perfect obsidian ax head.  For you, he said.  Do you like?

The noon sun struck light from the razored edges.  It belonged in a museum, or back in the cave he'd found it in.  My husband, I thought, would go crazy for this, the find of the day.  I reached out and touched it, then shook my head.  Thank you, I said, but I can't take it.  It's too beautiful, do you understand?

Please, he began, but I shook my head again, firmly this time.

He pulled a filthy handkerchief from his back pocket and wrapped it around the ax head, sliding it into his jeans.  Then he put out his hand once more, and I wondered if he wanted me to shake it.  Instead, he placed two delicate, filthy fingers against my sweatered breast.  Before I could even startle, he'd withdrawn them.  Look, he said.  Between his fingers was s single white hair.  He nodded at the dog, smiling and exposing those pathetic teeth of his.

I swallowed, flushed, and walked off with as brisk a dignity as I could muster.  What had just happened?  I didn't know--only that I'd been embarrassingly naive, that my husband had been worse, and that this isolated shepherd with the crusted wound on his ear had somehow read both of us with the penetrating accuracy of a psychologist or priest.  When I was a long way off, I looked back for just a moment.  He was still standing by the steps of the pink trailer, watching me, and when he saw that I was looking, he lifted his hand in a wave.

Years later, I wondered what else he'd read about us.  I wondered if he'd seen that the marriage wouldn't last, that we were both too young and ignorant to sustain a genuine partnership.  I wondered whether he'd seen through to my dark sheep's mind, which, during the tumultuous time of the divorce, suddenly panicked, stampeding me nearly to the edge.  Maybe he'd had the best of intentions after all.  Maybe his shepherd's heart had seen what my husband in his youth could not possibly know:  that I was in serious need of some loving guidance.


The Pennington rock corral is a monument to the strange and lonely tenderness of the shepherd.  Who else could have hefted those stones?  Who else would devote himself to such creatures?  Who else would have the patience for such passive ignorance, such terrible, dumb dread?

 

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